This week we're breaking the mold. Yep, the Sherpa's crossing the Pacific to explore the 50th state and its Big Island bounties. We hope you enjoy reading it as much as we enjoyed researching it. Aloha!
—Brad Day, Founder.
To reach the crown jewel of Hawaiian snorkeling spots requires a little extra effort. Captain Cook's Monument on the western part of the Big Island is inaccessible by car, so to get there you have to: a) hike for a few hours; b) swim for a few (or several!) hours; c) take a tourist boat; or d) paddle in a kayak about 30 minutes each way. Bingo! Take the kayak; the route is in a protected bay, the backdrop comprises high cliffs covered in glistening green foliage, and—oh yeah—the resident spinner dolphins like to swim up really close to the kayaks (so close, in fact, you can hear them breathing). Arriving at the monument, nose the kayak up to land, costume-up in snorkel gear, and enjoy a very big payoff: The water's warm, the waves lap gently, and the vast coral underworld sparkles like a disco mirrorball, with fish as colorful as Jolly Ranchers and a reef drop-off so dramatic you expect to find a treasure chest in the depths. Take a break on land (there's no sandy beach, but plenty of shaded volcanic rock), and explore the trails that lead to ancient ruins and, of course, the monument to Captain Cook; the great English explorer was treated like a god when he landed here, but then killed when he was recognized as a mortal. Remember, respect the coral—lest you end up like the Captain.
TIP: Arrive before 10 a.m. for 'morning-light' and gentle tide snorkeling. It gets a lot more crowded and overcast at Captain Cook's Monument later in the day.
Rent single or double kayaks from Aloha Kayak or Kona Boys, both on Hwy. 11 in Honalo, about 10 miles south of Kailua-Kona. They will set the kayak on your car (no roof rack necessary) and give you the info for kayaking out to Captain Cook. Guided trip options are also available.
Hiking across a still-steaming crater is the iconic Big Island experience. You've just gotta do it! The rainforest home to two of the world's most active volcanoes and Hawaii's only World Heritage Site, Volcanoes National Park feels like a world of its own. There are miles of trails to choose from, but the marquee experience is crossing Kilauea Iki Crater. This moderate 4-mile (round-trip) hike starts with a half-hour amble through the rainforest high along the crater's rim (with multiple overlooks to the crater floor below); lush native plants and trilling birds fill the space, and the air is moist and fragrant. Eventually you reach a place where the path steeply descends for 400 feet to the abruptly barren, steaming crater floor. Follow the rocky cairns through the expansive, ethereal surroundings, passing multiple lava-lake steam vents. So otherworldly is this environment that you might feel as if you're tiptoeing around a lunar landscape. When you reach the opposite side, the trail ascends again, completing the loop. Full moon.
TIP: Upon completing the trail, make a small diversion to inspect the illuminated section of the Thurston Lava Tube, an old lava flow—now a giant cave—that goes on for miles. If you're feeling adventurous, bring a flashlight or headlamp to explore farther into the tube's unlit depths.
Hawaii Volcanoes National Park is about a 2.5 hour drive on Hwy. 11 from Kailua-Kona. For route details and information, check out the PDF brochure of the Kilauea Iki Trail.
Trying to cover the Big Island's 5-star beaches is like trying to cover the Bay Area's great dining spots. There are just too many! And in Hawaii, all beaches are public. It was tough to do, but we singled out three top beaches for sun, fun, sand, and swimming:
You've heard of black sand beaches, white sand beaches, and, well, sandy-colored beaches. But have you heard of Green Sand Beach? Located on the very southern tip of the Big Island (just shy of being the southernmost point in the U.S.), Green Sand Beach really is mossy green. Four-wheel or hike the 2 miles to get there. The water here is nice for a quick dip, but the waves can be strong, even lifting up (and away!) the odd bikini top. (Tides get high by early afternoon.) Go on a weekend and you're likely to see some of the ridiculously tan high school kids showing off their boogie board acumen.
It's been called the best beach on the planet and it appears on screensavers across the cubicle world. Kua Bay is inconspicuous, and a local's favorite, so upon arrival, act natural (it's harder than you think when your jaw drops and lets out squeals of delight). The water: turquoise blue. The waves: gentle and refreshing. The sand: soft and white. The place: off the radar. Go. It's good.
Want a slice of old Hawaii, with resident dolphins to boot? Go to Honomalino Bay, on the island's southwestern coast. "No Trespassing" signs line the beginning of the trail here, but this is public land, so don't be intimidated. After hiking for about 20 minutes, you'll reach a crescent beach flanked by coconut trees, with almost zero crowds. Here's where it gets even more interesting (and you heard it hear first). Resident spinner dolphins often put on better-than-SeaWorld shows by leaping out of the water and spinning in mid-air. For a once-in-a-lifetime experience, don your snorkel gear, swim out a ways, and wait. If you're lucky, the dolphins will come right up to you and swim under, around, and beside you. Don't chase them; just enjoy the surreal underwater display. Back at the beach, catch your breath and absorb the experience. And watch out for falling coconuts. This beach really is a knock-out!
To reach Green Sands Beach: Travel to the far south point of the island on Hwy. 11 and take South Point Rd., between mile marker 69 and 70. Travel about 10 miles down this country road. Veer left at the end and park near the Kaulana boat launch, or continue on four-wheel drive. If hiking, wear hiking shoes (not flip flops) and bring plenty of water. It's a little over 2 miles (one-way) to the beach.
To reach Kua Bay (aka Manini'owali Beach): travel about 10 miles north of Kailua-Kona on Hwy. 19. The turnoff is between mile marker 88 and 89, directly opposite the West Hawaii Veteran's Cemetery. It's closed on Wednesdays.
To reach Honomalino Bay: Travel about 30 miles south on Hwy. 11 from Kailua-Kona. Exit after mile marker 89, following the signs to the town of Miloli'i. Take this road until it dead-ends at the basketball courts. Park and take the trail that is between the yellow church and bathrooms. Allow about 20 minutes to walk to the beach. It's recommended to visit on weekdays, as weekends are more popular with locals.
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