With summer crowds gone, fall is the prime season to harvest some downtime with a last-minute trip to California's soul-refreshing capital: Big Sur.
Coastal Chronicles: "It's like Narnia out there," says the ranger at Andrew Molera State Park. To get right into the heart of this storybook landscape, hike the park's 8.4-mile Ridge Bluff loop. Duck through sturdy oaks and imperious redwoods as you climb high above the world on a ridge, where you take in the Pacific's blue waters to the west and the wild Santa Lucia Mountain Range to the east. Be sure not to miss Spring Trail, a short 0.1-mile offshoot to one of Big Sur's most remote beaches, where the mineral almandine adds unusual color. Kick off your shoes and run your feet through swirls of pink and lavender sand. Magic.The moderate trail can be hiked in either direction. From the parking lot, cross the bridge (which is removed in the winter) over the Big Sur River and head west on the Beach Trail. Then go southeast on the Bluffs Trail; Spring Trail is reached after 1.7 miles. Continue climbing on Panorama Trail (a butt kicker!), and then descend down the Ridge Trail. Take the Hidden Trail down to the River Trail, which goes back to the parking lot. Or you can make a shorter six-mile route by hiking out to Spring Trail and back along the Bluffs Trail. Dogs not allowed on the trails.
Tide Pools 'n' Prohibition: According to Big Sur locals, Pardington Cove was once a Prohibition-era port for buccaneer whiskey runners. Today, it offers treasure of a different kind: With just a short 0.5-mile hike from your parking spot, you can find tranquility away from the crowds. Walk down a wide fire road, cross a bridge over a stream, and slip through a 100-foot burrowed-rock tunnel. At the other end you're immediately greeted by the intimate turquoise waters of the cove and possibly a resident sea otter. Take a break and bust out your own Pirate's Booty. You can also climb on the rocks that extend into the sea—just be careful if the tide is coming in, or you may take an unexpected dip.
The cove is six miles south of Nepenthe. Just after mile marker 38, you will see a large pull out for cars on either side of the road. On the west side of Highway 1, walk past the gate and down to the cove. Dogs not allowed.
Flight of the Condors: California condors are making a comeback, and Big Sur is one of their main stages. According to the Ventana Wildlife Society, Grimes Point is the best place to spot these rare, mighty-winged birds. There are no signs for Grimes Point—you just have to know where it is and what time to be there. Late afternoon's matinee performance is the best chance to catch the condors in action. Pull your car off Highway 1 exactly 2.1 miles south of Nepenthe (look for house construction). Stare up, keep your eyes peeled—and leave your small-ish pets inside the car!Sunset Satisfied: Make like Ansel Adams and catch a poster-worthy sunset at Pfeiffer Beach in Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park, which is easily accessed about one mile south of the park's entrance on the west side of Highway 1. The turn-off for Pfeiffer Beach is poorly marked, so you have to look for it. It's a windy, two-mile road down to the beach, which can be packed during a sunny day; but the traffic thins by sunset. Bring layers and a camera to capture the fire in the sky. (The beach is dog-friendly.)
Local Tunes: Sometimes there's live music at the local...uhhh…library? Yup, that's right, the Henry Miller Library brings Big Surians out in droves for live performances under the redwood canopy in the library's front yard. We're told Neil Young drops by on occasion.
Eat: Start your day with a tasty pastry at locals' favorite Big Sur Bakery. Enjoy a chocolate or ham-and-cheese croissant, and then wash it down with coffee from beans roasted in the Santa Cruz Mountains. For lunch or dinner, Nepenthe is a Big Sur staple for tourists and residents alike. It's also a common point of reference when you ask for directions. Outside the restaurant, grab a seat on the umbrella-covered patio, chow down, and be on the lookout for those big, hungry birds! Big Sur Bakery, Highway 1, Big Sur; 831-667-0520.
Nepenthe, Highway 1, Big Sur; 831-667-2394.
Sleep: Big Sur is among the world's most beautiful places to pitch a tent. The problem: Everyone knows it. Campground reservations often fill months in advance. Though it's not immune to crowds or filling-up, Andrew Molera State Park is your best bet for an eleventh-hour trip because you have to walk a third of a mile (a deterrent for many) to the 24 tent sites, and it doesn't take reservations. The campground is also a short hike from a two-mile-long beach, hiking trails, and oceanside horseback riding through Molera Horseback Tours. If you prefer camping under the redwoods, then try your luck at Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park. This is a reservation campground that fills quickly, but with 218 spots, there are bound to be cancellations and no-shows. Just get there early or call ahead—and you might luck into a spot on the Big Sur River. (Dogs are not allowed at Andrew Molera campground, but they are allowed at Pfeiffer Big Sur campground. Currently the water is not potable at Andrew Molera, so bring your own.)
If you're Big Sur–bound on Friday after work, it's probably best to spend the night in Monterey, where there are loads of hotels. Get up early Saturday, and arrive between 9 and 10 a.m. to claim a camping spot. And if you don't want to pitch a tent, you can try calling the Big Sur Lodge (831-667-3100) in Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park, the Big Sur River Inn (831-667-2700), or the Ripplewood Resort (831-667-2242). They all have a 72-hour cancellation period, so call on Wednesday morning and see if anything has opened up.
Feeling guilty about leaving your pet behind the next time you embark on an overnight escape? Don't worry; you can give your beloved pooch or feline a vacation too. Check your dog or cat into San Francisco's new and exclusive pet respite, WAG Hotel. With three levels, 239 rooms, and more than 35,000 square feet of pet pleasure, your best friend will be treated like animal royalty. There are paw treatments (paw-dicures), spa treatments (blueberry facials and massages), and even a pool-time recess where Buster can practice his belly flop. The sanitary factor? An advanced air-filtration system completely recycles the air every six minutes, keeping every whiff and sniff fresh. And if you're the type that obsesses about not seeing your Sparky or Princess, opt for the luxury suite: It features a Wag-Cam, so you can login remotely and view the Sparkster while he sleeps. Rooms start at $40 per day. (Cat condos start at $20.) Online reservations welcome. WAG Hotel: It's so good you may want to check in yourself... Woof!
All guest services staff are certified by ABKA, the international trade association for pet care professionals.
WAG Hotel, 25 14th Street (just off Harrison), San Francisco; 888-WAG-LINE.