From redwoods to rocky shores to relaxing lakesides, Marin’s got a bountiful mix of hiking fit for the fall. To the trails!
Some hikes have it all: a quiet lake, far-reaching views, redwood forests, and the real bonus—almost no people. On Mount Tam's quiet northern side, you'll find one of these hikes. Start at Bon Tempe Lake and combine the Kent, Stocking, and Rocky Ridge trails to make a 5-mile loop that will please everyone—including the dog. The loping path moves in and out of trees near the shore of Alpine Lake where the only sounds you'll hear are ducks and the occasional cast of a fishing line. Up above, red-tailed hawks and turkey vultures circle in the sky. About 2.5 miles in a solid climb ascends through a redwood forest, passing the pea-soup colored "hidden lake" and winding through moss-and-lichen-covered trees. The final 1.5 miles of the hike are along the exposed Rocky Ridge fire road which descends to the starting point; along the way keep your eyes open to views as far as Mount Diablo.
To reach the trailhead: From Sir Francis Drake Blvd. in Fairfax, turn left onto Pastori, make an immediate right onto Broadway, and another quick left on Bolinas. Go 1.5 miles on this road (aka Fairfax-Bolinas Rd.). Turn left onto Sky Oaks Rd., pass the kiosk ($8 entrance fee) and follow the signs to Bon Tempe Lake. (Here's a map of the area.) Park, walk uphill and bear right over the spillway and across the dam. At the end of the dam, bear right and continue along the fire road. At about .8 mile in, the fire road becomes Kent Trail. Follow this around the lake. Follow the signs to continue on the Kent Trail as it leaves the lake after 2.3 miles. After 3 miles, turn left on Stocking Trail. After 3.7 miles, turn left on Rocky Ridge fire road. This takes you back down to the dam. Dog-friendly!
The Marin Headlands never ceases to amaze. It's easy to take this historic open space for granted, but go there on a late weekend afternoon and get a refresher on the area's grandeur with a 3.5-mile walk. The route—from Rodeo Beach to Point Bonita and back—doesn't follow a traditional path; it's more about meandering unofficial trails and lightly used roads, and packs in more points of interest than an iPhone app. Starting at Rodeo Beach, walk up the unmarked trail through the ice plant on the southern side of beach, getting great views of the Marin coast. Continue to Battery Mendell and the Bird Island overlook where Northern and Southern views of land and sea are superb. But even better views are found at the radar station. Keep going along the cliff top and watch your footing while spying down toward the sea in search of an old shipwreck (most visible at low tide). Take a short .5-mile (one-way) detour to the Point Bonita Lighthouse (open Saturday to Monday from 12:30 to 3:30 p.m.) Keep the good views coming by passing another old army relic—and one of Marin's best barbecue spots—Battery Wallace—before descending for the last stretch along peaceful Lagoon Trail. Exploratory mission accomplished.
From the Rodeo Beach parking lot, walk south along the beach. Take the unofficial trail up through the ice plant (not the Lagoon Trail—which is what you come back on). Bear right on this trail as it heads up to the Battery Alexander parking lot and the YMCA. Follow the paved road around the YMCA. When you reach the Point Bonita Lighthouse Trail, keep walking along the road to Battery Mendell and the Bird Island overlook. Loop back on the trail behind Battery Mendell (passing two rusted dome structures). The trail continues along the cliff top up to the radar tower. Loop around the tower and take the wide fire road back to the Point Bonita Lighthouse. Make an out-and-back to the lighthouse. Continue on the road to the YMCA. Turn right up the road opposite the YMCA. Pass Battery Wallace. At the next junction follow the signs to San Francisco and the visitor center. At the visitor center take the Lagoon Trail, which starts behind the restrooms. This takes you back to Rodeo Beach. Here's a map of the area, but it does not include the unofficial trails. Rodeo Beach and the Lagoon Trail are dog-friendly, but some of the cliff-top trails might not be safe for dogs.
Here's a little magic trick called the great Muir Woods disappearing act: Walk through the main gate of Muir Woods. Encounter loads of people. Keep walking down the paved trail for a few minutes, then—here's the "secret"—take a right on the Ocean View Trail. Shazam! The crowds are gone! And you're hiking through a canopy of gorgeous redwoods. For an easy 4-mile loop, keep hiking up the Ocean View Trail to Panoramic Trail. Take in the ocean view before heading down to the woods again, towards the Tourist Club—the Bay Area's closest thing to an alpine hut, where open decks and cold beers inspire a break. When you're ready, the Sun Trail continues south from the Tourist Club, to the Dipsea Trail. Get a taste of this famous endurance trail-running path as it dips and winds back to Muir Woods. Ta-dah!
Walk through the Muir Woods entrance ($5 per person), pick up a map, and continue along the main trail on the right side of Redwood Creek. After .2 mile, turn right on the Ocean View Trail. At the junction with Lost Trail, stay right and keep going uphill. After 1.8 miles reach the Panoramic Trail (not marked) paralleling Panoramic Hwy. and go right. In 5 to 10 minutes, make a right down the Redwood Trail (currently there is no sign; look for railroad ties lying perpendicular to the trail. If you pass an old rusty car on the trail, you've gone too far.) Reach the Tourist Club. The Sun Trail starts south of the club. In .5 mile you'll reach Muir Woods Rd. Cross it, and turn right down the Dipsea Trail. The trail isn't maintained in one section and you're required to straddle over a large drainage pipe. Reach the Muir Woods parking lot in .75 mile. No dogs.
Getting The New York Times: Smart. Getting local coverage in your Times subscription: Smarter.
Sophisticated, smart, cultured, curious, traveled. Sound like you? It should! It's all reasons why The New York Times chose the Bay Area as the first place to launch an expanded edition featuring extra pages dedicated to Northern California news and events. So when you subscribe to The Weekender, a Friday through Sunday subscription to The New York Times, you get the same newspaper filled with intelligent and entertaining coverage on travel, global events, books, arts, film, culture, and cuisine—plus additional content for San Francisco, the Silicon Valley, the East Bay and beyond.
SPECIAL OFFER: Save 50% on home delivery of the New York Times, and every Friday and Sunday your edition will feature more of the Bay Area. As an added bonus Weekend Sherpa subscribers will receive a complimentary stainless steel Laken water bottle (value $20) from Merrell's Union Square store.