06.24.10


Redwood Road Trip

Think you've seen redwoods? Venture to their namesake park in the farthest reaches of Northern California: As the largest repository of protected redwoods on the planet, with craggy coastlines, abundant wildlife, and twisting turquoise rivers, this is Redwood National and State Parks.  


Hike Fern Canyon Redwood National Park

Land of the Lost

Green Mile: There's a reason The Lost World: Jurassic Park was filmed in Fern Canyon: The narrow gorge teems with five kinds of ferns and makes the perfect environment for a T-Rex comeback. Scale fallen redwoods, hop over streams, and listen as water slips like silver tinsel over 50-foot canyon walls blanketed in shiny green ferns. The 1-mile round-trip loop through Fern Canyon isn't to be missed—or rushed. Stay and play awhile (bring your best water-shoes). Afterward, stroll out to nearby Gold Bluffs Beach; chances are good you'll cross soggy wetlands to get there, but the sandy solitude is well worth the slosh.

Tall Tales: You'll need to pick up a free permit and the combination to a locked gate guarding the entrance to the tallest trees in the world. A 2.5-mile round-trip hike takes you to Tall Trees Grove, a spectacular gathering of 350-foot-plus redwood royalty, including the 368-foot Libby Tree (though a recently broken-off branch brought its height down a few notches!). The 14-mile drive to the trailhead, on a curvy and partially paved road, is half the adventure!

Go to the visitor center in Orick (open 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. in the summer) and pick up maps, directions, and hiking information for the area. They also give out the free permit and combination to access Tall Trees Grove (only available on the day you do the hike). No dogs are allowed on any trails in Redwood National and State Parks.


raft Smith River with Redwood River Trips

Last of the Free

California's largest free-flowing river has more wild and scenic miles than any other river in the country. One of the best ways to experience the pristine aquamarine waters of the Smith River is with a couple of good local guides, a roomy inflatable raft, and a picnic basket filled with locally sourced artisan treats. John Sutter and Matt Ross are the friendly guides at Redwood River Trips. They're the only company running this stretch of river, and they do it right! Start your excursion with a coffee and biscotti as Matt and John get you outfitted and go over the basics. Then it's onto the river. This isn't whitewater rafting—the 2-hour float of Class I and II lets you relax and get your thrills from the scenery. John and Matt will nose the rafts to shore a couple of times for snacks and redwood explorations including a short hike through the cathedral-like Stout Grove. It's easy to be smitten by the Smith.

Redwood River Trips (707-498-1213) start at $75 per person (2-person minimum) for the Smith River Trip. Dog-friendly!


Elk Meadow Cabins Redwood National Park

Tree Sleeps

Morning Glory: Wake up to Roosevelt elk outside your back door. Elk Meadow Cabins—at the southern end of Redwood National and State Parks—is smack in the middle of their favorite hangout. All six cabins have three bedrooms, more than one bathroom, and plenty of kitchen and patio space, including a BBQ. Bring some friends or enjoy it all to yourself! The knowledgeable staff also leads local adventures like kayaking, mountain biking, and horseback riding.

Bank on It: Pitch your tent beneath old-growth redwood trees on the banks of the emerald-green Smith River at the campground in Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park (part of Redwood National and State Parks). This popular drive-in campground has trails leaving right from it and a seasonal (summer) bridge over the river to Stout Grove.

Eco B&B: Situated in the middle of Redwood National and State Parks, the Historic Requa Inn is just a few minutes from the Klamath Overlook, perhaps the best whale-watching site in the entire state during migration season. The 12-room eco-conscious bed and breakfast overlooks the Klamath River. (Try to get a room that does, too.) The interior is vintage 1914 and the large sunroom and living room has a fireplace and a supply of binoculars for spying birds on the Klamath.

Elk Meadow Cabins (707-488-2222) start at $229 per night (dog-friendly!). Bring groceries from Eureka on your way up as food supplies and dining options are limited. Make a reservation to camp at Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park by going to reserveamerica.com. Sites are $35 per night (dog-friendly!). Rooms at Historic Requa Inn (866-800-8777) start at $79 per night (no dogs).


Mystery Loves Company

Something's in the water at the Monterey Bay Aquarium. Is it the mysterious lives of seahorses, the graceful dive of a penguin, the mesmerizing pulse of glowing jellies? Or is it that special connection you make with someone in the hypnotic sway of the lush Kelp Forest? Perhaps it's the look of pure joy when a child comes face to face with a playful otter. Whatever it is, it's happening at the Monterey Bay Aquarium this summer. Plan your visit to the iconic nonprofit on the Central Coast and discover the delights a day at the aquarium can bring. Just make sure you experience it with someone special.

TIP: Learn which seafoods are environmentally sustainable, and donate to ocean conservation. It's all happening at Montereybayaquarium.org.

Visit montereybayaquarium.org/love to learn more and plan your trip.

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