Backyard Sierra

With bright blue water, ospreys soaring overhead and evergreens towering all around, Bon Tempe feels like a secluded lake in the Sierra Nevada. Surprise! It's one of the five pocket lakes on Mt. Tam's northern flank, and the water supply for many Marin homes. You'll never lose sight of this blue beauty as you hike the flat 3.8-mile trail that circles its shore; this lakeside loop is a solitude-seeker's haven, with just the occasional dog walker or fisherman (from late October through May, the reservoir is stocked with rainbow trout) sauntering by. Start this clockwise loop on the wide-open Sunnyside Trail with fantastic views of Mt. Tam; finish on the Shadyside Trail hiking through madrones, Douglas fir, and plenty of ferns. Along the way, savor the Sierra Nevada-like silence—just 3 miles from the big Pacific. Let the Bon Tempe roll!

BONUS: Post-hike, treat yourself to a tasty scoop of honey vanilla lavender ice cream from Fairfax Scoop in Fairfax (63 Broadway).

Bon Tempe Lake is on Mt. Tamalpais Watershed land. There is a day use fee of $7. To get there from Hwy 101 in Marin: Exit onto Sir Francis Drake Blvd. toward San Anselmo and follow it west 6 miles to Fairfax. Turn left on Pastori, immediately right on Broadway, then left on Bolinas (aka Bolinas-Fairfax Rd.). Go 1.5 miles on Bolinas Rd. to Sky Oaks Rd.; turn left. This takes you into the park. Make your first right after the entrance toward Bon Tempe. Drive .5 mile and park. Walk past the wooden gate and go left on the Bon Tempe Sunnyside Trail (right is the Shadyside Trail). When you get to the road, cross it and follow the wooden stairs and trail to the right. Continue right at the fork after 100 feet. When you reach the bathrooms, go up and behind them. Follow trail signs to make a big loop around the lake (map PDF). Dog friendly!

Crystal Blue Persuasion

Accessible only to small groups through a reservation system, the Fifield-Cahill Ridge Trail is well worth the booking effort. Just west of I-280 and Crystal Springs Reservoir (supplier of water to San Francisco and the Peninsula), this haven for endangered butterflies and birds is part of 23,000+ acres of wild open space just beyond city limits. Join a group on a docent-led 2 to 5-mile hike along a wide fire road through Monterey Cypress and old-growth Douglas fir (there's also a more challenging 13-mile hike or bike route). This area is home to the rare marbled murrelet sea bird, and the San Bruno Elfin and Mission Blue Butterflies; their endangered status is one of the reasons why public use of the trail is so carefully restricted. The hike has multiple vantage points with panoramic views of Crystal Springs Reservoir. Drink it in.

The Fifield-Cahill Ridge Trail can be traveled only through a docent program with the San Francisco Public Utilities Commission. Make a reservation online or call 650-652-3203. There is no fee to hike the Fifield-Cahill Ridge Trail. No dogs.

Hetch Hetchy High

If you're one of those who have a love-hate relationship with Yosemite (it's gorgeous, but crowded), we have the solution: Visit the less-traveled northwest corner around Hetch Hetchy. Back before the valley was dammed to create the Hetch Hetchy Reservoir—SF's controversial water source—John Muir called it "one of nature's rarest and most precious mountain temples. A second Yosemite." Be sure to hike the 2.5 miles to impressive Wapama Falls; the trail is open and easy, with wide views of the gorgeous valley and a full 1,000-foot refreshing waterfall at your turnaround point. If Yosemite Valley is the heart of this national park, Hetch Hetchy is its soul.

TIP: Overnight at the historic Evergreen Lodge, only 6 miles from the reservoir. This rustic place combines the quintessential Yosemite experience with a comfortable and friendly atmosphere. Until October 13, Evergreen also offers "custom camping"; the tents are already set up for you, with everything from air beds to towels and toiletries. The cost is $70.

Evergreen Lodge, 33160 Evergreen Rd., Groveland, 800-935-6343. Cabin rates: $139–$299. Reach Evergreen Lodge and Hetch Hetchy by way of Hwy 120; turn off at Evergreen Rd. just .5 mile before the entrance to Yosemite.

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