Easily Overlooked

Sometimes the best things are right under your nose—or in this case, right off the square. Start the day with a 2.5-mile (round-trip) hike on Sonoma's Overlook Trail. Since 2002, locals have been enjoying this backyard park that offers an expansive panorama of Sonoma Valley and its cascading green hills and vineyards. There's no need to drive to this trailhead: The hike starts and ends just a few blocks off Sonoma's central square. The path gently ascends through blue oaks, manzanitas, and madrones. In the spring, the trail is decorated with buttercups, mule ears, sky lupine, and royal larkspur. On hot days, oak-shaded benches make a nice break spot. The trail winds up Schocken Hill with views of Mount Tamalpais, San Pablo Bay, and even San Francisco on a clear day. Finish the loop and take the five-minute stroll back to Sonoma Square.

To reach the trailhead from the square, head north on First St. West. Find the staging area just beyond the Veterans Memorial Building on the right side of the street. Follow the signs for the Overlook Trail's Upper Loop Trail. No dogs.

Vintage Ride

Sonoma was meant for leisurely bike riding from winery to winery. The key is to cruise the country roads. Rent a bike at Sonoma Valley Bike Tours and Rentals on the southeast corner of the square. They have a great map that paves the way to the wineries. (Pick one up for free even if you're not renting.) The 12-mile route we recommend leaves from the square, rolls past small and large vineyards, and along oak-lined streets. First up is Gundlach Bundschu, which despite its popularity still retains a mom-and-pop charm. This is a great place to picnic with your wine: Tables are located by a small lagoon and perched up on a hill with a view of the grounds. Continue on the most scenic (and hilly) part of the ride along narrow Thornsberry Road as it winds past country homes. Buena Vista Winery is next––as the oldest winery in California its tasting room is a registered landmark. We liked their Carneros Pinot. Those ambitious for a third stop can turn into Bartholomew Park Winery, a historic and organic operation that's smack in the middle of a 400-acre park. After tasting, and visiting the museum, walk the trails right behind the winery. Hop back on the bike; you're only 2 miles from the square. The fruits of your labor have never tasted so sweet!

Sonoma Valley Bike Tours and Rentals, 520 Broadway, Sonoma; 707-996-2453. Open seven days a week from 8:30 a.m. to 5 p.m. Rentals start at $35 for the day. For the 12-mile ride described, follow the Sonoma Winery Loop detailed on the map, without going to Homewood Winery.

Lights Out

Once a month a truly enlightening event happens at Sugarloaf Ridge State Park in Sonoma that will literally have you seeing stars. The park's Robert Ferguson Observatory opens its doors to the public for telescope viewing that is out of this world. You've got to get in your car to get there from the square, but the 20-minute drive is worth it. Starting at 9 p.m. in the summer when the sun's completely down, volunteer docents give you access to powerful telescopes: the 24-inch reflecting and 8-inch refracting. Spy dynamic star clusters like the Bee Hive; see Saturn up close (real close!) and learn about everything from star alignments to black holes in docent-led seminars occurring every half hour. Amateur astronomers—who know their stuff—form their own star power in the parking lot next to the observatory; peer into their personal telescopes and get all kinds of trivia on the solar system. One volunteer let us have a quick look at the moon. (Just glance though, it's bright!) That's some star treatment.

Visit Robert Ferguson Observatory's Web site for upcoming public astronomy dates. Admission is $3 per adult, and there's an $8 car fee.

Time for a Change