Whoa Watching

There's whale watching and then there's whoa watching. Get up close to the largest animals on Earth from the seat of a kayak. Bob around the ocean as 50-foot whales cruise by, their massive dark silhouettes growing more clear until pshooo—blowhole! Dave Johnston of Venture Quest can make the magic happen; for the past seven years he's led whale kayaking trips during the spring migration. Gray whale mothers keep their calves in the safer waters close to shore as they journey north to Alaska, a behavior that optimizes chances to see them. Trips leave from Davenport Landing, about 10 miles north of Santa Cruz. Dave will outfit you with everything you need, including do's and don'ts for paddling among these beautiful behemoths. Venture Quest's whale-sighting record this season is 100 percent. Like those odds!

TIP: Warm up post-kayak with a coffee and pastry at Whale City Bakery just south of Davenport Landing on Hwy. 1.

Venture Quest (831-427-2267) leads whale-watching kayak trips from March to May. The cost is $70 per person. Trips are weather-dependent.

Pillar Whales

What's needed for great whale-watching from shore? Land that pokes out into the ocean and a high vantage point. Find both at the Pillar Point Bluffs, just north of Half Moon Bay. While its claim to fame is the annual Mavericks surf contest, the bluffs just north of the Air Force Station are a prime whale-watching spot. From 150 feet above the ocean, scan the waters for flukes and spouts. Bring the binoculars for a close-up. There's no official trail leading to this point, just a network of informal dirt paths. Standing atop the craggy cliffs offers unobstructed views of Half Moon Bay to the south and Point Montara to the north. Below are the protected waters of Fitzgerald Marine Reserve, a tide-pool treasure trove. Just off shore, the grays may be passing by… or not; patience, a keen eye, and a little luck all are helpful. The trail ends after about 1 mile but there's the option to continue through a residential neighborhood to historic Moss Beach Distillery. Grab a seat next to a fire pit on the outdoor heated patio and toast the day's wanderings. Return the way you came.

Drive 25 miles down Hwy 1, south of San Francisco. Turn right on Capistrano Rd. in Princeton-by-the-Sea. Turn left onto Prospect Way and right onto Broadway. Make an immediate left onto Harvard and follow it through the industrial area. Turn right onto West Point Ave. and continue to the Pillar Point dirt parking lot on the left. Begin the hike by going through the yellow gate across from the parking lot. Follow the paved road uphill toward the antenna. Follow a dirt trail on the left when the road curves right. This is the beginning of the bluff trail. The trail ends at Ocean Blvd.; continue walking a few blocks to the distillery. Both the trail and the distillery are dog-friendly!

Light Sleeper

Staying overnight at the Pigeon Point Lighthouse is great any time of the year, but go in the next few weeks and get a big bonus: gray whales swimming right outside your door. The Pigeon Point Lighthouse Hostel is one of only a few accommodations on this stretch of the coast. The four guesthouses, salty and weathered with white and blue trim (don't mind the flaking paint), each have a private room, and are ideally situated next to the old lighthouse built in 1872. The best vantage point for spotting grays is a short stroll away on a boardwalk overlook. Volunteer docents can be found here most weekends, lending binoculars and dishing information on the whales and shipwreck lore. Or walk a few minutes in the opposite direction down to Whalers Cove, a fine little beach recently saved by POST (Peninsula Open Space Trust). What else is sweet about this spot? Guests have access to a secluded hot tub perched above the bluffs facing the ocean. Jacuzzi jets and whale watching—hot combo!

BONUS: Nearby Butano State Park is a little-used hiking wonderland. Check out this 5-mile loop hike through redwood trees and fern canyons up to panoramic ridge views.

Pigeon Point Lighthouse Hostel, 210 Pigeon Point Rd., Pescadero; 650-879-0633. Private rooms start at $74. Shared dorm rooms start at $28. Dogs are not allowed at the hostel.

Life in SLO-Motion