Just 20 miles south of Tahoe, smack in the middle of the "California Alps," Hope Valley is a wilderness-world apart, offering a range of welcoming winter options.  

You know those paintings of a cabin hidden in the aspens, covered in snow with lights twinkling all around? That scene comes to life at Sorensen's Resort in Hope Valley, which has delivered accessible solitude for more than a century. Over the past 27 years, the resort has been lovingly refurbished by John and Patty Brissenden; today 35 cabins—including 9 log cabins—are scattered around the trees. Each features Scandinavian decor, most have Franklin-stove fireplaces and mini kitchens—and the absence of televisions and telephones means the only sound you'll hear is the falling snow. You can even enjoy a warm-down in the dedicated sauna cabin. Sorensen's can practically double as a Swiss Alps retreat, but this is the California Alps—yodel-ay-eee-oooo!

TIP: Sorensen's has a homey, six-table, on-site restaurant that serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner. The meals are hearty, the wine selection is eclectic and reasonable, and the knotty pine paneling, large tree-stump tables, and corner fireplace create a warm woodsy mood.

Sorensen's Resort, 14255 Hwy 88, Hope Valley; 530-694-2203. Private cabins start at $135 per night for the weekend; two-night minimum.

Into the Wild: Kick and glide in Sierra solitude on Hope Valley's cross-country ski and snowshoe terrain; access to all 60 miles of trails is free. Just 300 yards from Sorensen's, the Hope Valley Outdoor Center will set you up with all the equipment—and info—you need. Talk to Joyce, who runs the shop and has the beta on which trails are best, based on current conditions. For a flat and easy excursion, Joyce recommends the wide-open Grass Lake Trail off Highway 89. If you're up for a steeper route with quick access to big views, head out on the Indian Head Trail (pictured), which starts right behind Sorensen's; at about 1.5 miles, there's a spectacular vista point looking northwest over Hope Valley. Haven't mastered the kick and glide yet? No problem. Joyce offers lessons in cross-country and snowshoe. This is one classroom you may never want to leave.

BONUS: Hope Valley Outdoor Center will not only rent you skis, they'll also fill your belly with some of the best berry-stuffed pies this side of the Rockies and slake your thirst with cold draught beer. Full service!

Well-kept Wonderland: For a more groomed experience, head 15 miles west to the Kirkwood Cross Country & Snowshoe Center, check in, and pay for a pass ($22 for a full day). Their 50 miles of trails have maintained double-tracks, with skating lanes and three small backcountry warming huts. We particularly enjoyed skiing on the Juniper and Outpost trails to the warming hut. The last mile rewards you with breathtaking views of Caples Lake and the snow-capped Sierras.

Both Hope Valley Outdoor Center and Kirkwood Cross Country & Snowshoe Center offer special guided tours, including some under a full moon.

Hope Valley Outdoor Center, 14644 Hwy 88, Hope Valley; 530-694-2266.
Kirkwood Cross Country & Snowshoe Center, .5 mile east of Kirkwood on Hwy 88; 209-258-7248.

When the day is done and you want to warm your muscles, make a 20-minute car jaunt from Hope Valley to Grover Hot Springs, an outdoor heated pool set in a meadow surrounded by 8,000-foot-high peaks. Soak your bones as the steam rises from the spring-fed pool, which reaches 104 degrees. If you prefer the pins-and-needles effect, there's also a cooler swimming pool on-site. In December, Grover Hot Springs set up a wide movie screen and played movies under the stars (pictured). They're thinking of extending the tradition through the winter; call in and cast a "yes" vote if you're planning a visit.

Grover Hot Springs State Park, 4 miles west of Markleeville at the end of Hot Springs Rd.; 530-694-2249. Through the winter the hot-spring pool is open from 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. everyday except Wednesday. The cost is $5 per person.