Secret Tahoe

Looking for nature’s untrammeled solace in Tahoe? Your own private Sierra is possible—on slope, trail, or barstool. Go solo, go with pals, or go with that certain someone—just make sure you go. Here’s how (and where).

Lost Trail Lodge

What's hidden, warm, and inaccessible by car or chairlift? A backcountry winter haven, courtesy of Lost Trail Lodge. Indulge in crisp mountain air, a roaring fireplace, and—oh yeah—hot tubs: all amidst a clutch of cozy cabins Lost Trail Lodge Tahoefor you to enjoy your well-deserved downtime. How do you get to this Swiss Alps-style utopia? Most reach it by ski or snowshoe; a common route is the four-mile (approximately two-hour) Coldstream Trail—passing alpine lakes and gorgeous snow-covered meadows. The lodge is an ideal base camp for snowshoe and ski day trips. Or you can just stay inside, concocting palate-pleasing feasts in the kitchen (you pack in your own food) and fine-tuning your jam session (with the lodge's selection of instruments) for some musical mood making. You'll have to be lucky to get a weekend cabin at this wintry oasis; however, for a midweek getaway, you just have to be creative. Feel that scratchy throat and contagious cough coming on? We thought so. Plan your sick days accordingly.

TIP: The lodge will send a snowmobile (for free) to pick up your gear, food, and whiskey, lightening your load so you can enjoy the trek through Coldstream Canyon.

Lost Trail Lodge, (530-320-9268). $69 per person, per night.

Get Fresh

Want to master the backcountry's majesty but don't know how? Contact the guys at Alpine Skills for their "In-N-Out of Bounds" program at Sugar Bowl. They'll take six skiers under the ropes to teach the basics of backcountry: going uphill and down, off-piste and on, utilizing a range of techniques and gear (think avalanche transceivers, probes, convertible bindings, and climbing skins). Cost is $176, or $140 if you have a lift pass. You may also want to check out Babes in the Backcountry. (Sorry, guys, this one's strictly for the gals.) This spirited organization starts off with a slope-side yoga session, then takes the "babes" out for some lessons in strength, skill, endurance, and avalanche safety. The next intro to the backcountry lesson happens on January 7. Cost: $100. Watch out for the peepin' dudes.

Alpine Skills International, (530-582-9170).
Babes in the Backcountry, (970-453-4060).


Alternative: When you've graduated to the do-it-yourself school of backcountry trailblazing, check out Sugar Bowl's "Lake Run." This "local's trail" goes from Mt. Judah to Donner Lake—an exhilarating downhill trip (2,000 feet of vertical, thank you very much), and it's only $15 for a one-way ticket to the top. Don't attempt this one until you're truly comfortable in the backcountry—and don't forget to leave a shuttle car at the bottom.

Apres-Ski

After your last run of the day, consider these R&R options. Grab a cold pitcher of brew and a cheesy pizza at Squaw's Loft Bar, favored by locals and in-the-know visitors. In Tahoe City the Bridgetender's the place of choice for a juicy, thick cheeseburger and some good draft beer. And for an on-mountain break, you can't beat the Ice Bar on on the backside of Alpine Meadows—a makeshift shack celebrated for its brats, beer, BBQ, and lack of crowds—not to mention its totally outdoor seating. Hey, kick back and have another. You've earned it. Bonus: For the ultimate après-ski experience, go retro with that "'80s skin and party ski flick," Hot Dog. On January 20th Squaw Valley's Olympic Village Lodge is hosting a Hot Dog: The Movie 25th Anniversary Party with live music and all the debauchery. Tickets on sale soon.

The Loft Bar, The Base Village at Squaw Valley (530-583-4505).
The Bridgetender, 65 West Lake Blvd., Tahoe City (530-583-3342).
Ice Bar, bottom of Sherwood Express chair, Alpine Meadows (530-583-4232).