Hetch Hetchy High

If you're one of those who have a love-hate relationship with Yosemite (it's gorgeous, but crowded), we have the solution: Visit the less-traveled northwest corner around Hetch Hetchy. Back before the valley was dammed to create the Hetch Hetchy Reservoir—SF's controversial water source—John Muir called it "one of nature's rarest and most precious mountain temples. A second Yosemite." Be sure to hike the 2.5 miles to impressive Wapama Falls; the trail is open and easy, with wide views of the gorgeous valley and a full 1,000-foot refreshing waterfall at your turnaround point. If Yosemite Valley is the heart of this national park, Hetch Hetchy is its soul.

TIP: Overnight at the historic Evergreen Lodge, only 6 miles from the reservoir. This rustic place combines the quintessential Yosemite experience with a comfortable and friendly atmosphere. Until October 13, Evergreen also offers "custom camping"; the tents are already set up for you, with everything from air beds to towels and toiletries. The cost is $70.

Evergreen Lodge, 33160 Evergreen Rd., Groveland, 800-935-6343. Cabin rates: $139–$299. Reach Evergreen Lodge and Hetch Hetchy by way of Hwy 120; turn off at Evergreen Rd. just .5 mile before the entrance to Yosemite.