Underwater Technicolor

To reach the crown jewel of Hawaiian snorkeling spots requires a little extra effort. Captain Cook's Monument on the western part of the Big Island is inaccessible by car, so to get there you have to: a) hike for a few hours; b) swim for a few (or several!) hours; c) take a tourist boat; or d) paddle in a kayak about 30 minutes each way. Bingo! Take the kayak; the route is in a protected bay, the backdrop comprises high cliffs covered in glistening green foliage, and—oh yeah—the resident spinner dolphins like to swim up really close to the kayaks (so close, in fact, you can hear them breathing). Arriving at the monument, nose the kayak up to land, costume-up in snorkel gear, and enjoy a very big payoff: The water's warm, the waves lap gently, and the vast coral underworld sparkles like a disco mirrorball, with fish as colorful as Jolly Ranchers and a reef drop-off so dramatic you expect to find a treasure chest in the depths. Take a break on land (there's no sandy beach, but plenty of shaded volcanic rock), and explore the trails that lead to ancient ruins and, of course, the monument to Captain Cook; the great English explorer was treated like a god when he landed here, but then killed when he was recognized as a mortal. Remember, respect the coral—lest you end up like the Captain.

TIP: Arrive before 10 a.m. for 'morning-light' and gentle tide snorkeling. It gets a lot more crowded and overcast at Captain Cook's Monument later in the day.

Rent single or double kayaks from Aloha Kayak or Kona Boys, both on Hwy. 11 in Honalo, about 10 miles south of Kailua-Kona. They will set the kayak on your car (no roof rack necessary) and give you the info for kayaking out to Captain Cook. Guided trip options are also available.