Napa, Now

Winter just might be the best time to visit our Tuscany of the West; everything scales down, including the prices. Smack in the center of Napa Valley sits the tiny town of Rutherford, where a hideaway haven awaits: the 26-room, Mission-style inn called Rancho Caymus. During the quieter winter months, the inn drops its rates more than $100, making it the one of the nicest values in Napa. Snag a comfy "Caymus Suite" with oak hardwood floors, redwood beam ceilings, and Southwestern décor in shades of brown, orange, and red. For an extra $20, upgrade to a "Rancho Suite" (pictured) with an adobe beehive fireplace. To add tranquility, there's a beautiful courtyard with a fountain. Rancho Caymus's central location makes it an ideal launch-point for enjoying your favorite wineries (almost all remain open in the winter, and a few are within walking distance). During your visit, be sure to swing by Dutch Henry Winery, off the northern end of the Silverado Trail; this no-frills setup is a throwback to the Napa of 20 or 30 years ago. Sweet Valley dreams.

BURRITO BONUS: Across the street from Rancho Caymus is La Luna Market and Taqueria. For tasty Mexican take-out, this place can't be beat (but beware, their homemade sauce is hot).

Distance: 61 miles from San Francisco.

Rancho Caymus, 1140 Rutherford Rd., Rutherford; 707-963-1777. Winter rates: rooms start at $155 a night.