From Yosemite for a Change

(Eat and) Drink in the Beauty

Ahhh, the après-Yosemite treat: refuel, reenergize, and reward yourself in the valley's beautiful setting. But don't change out of your sweaty hiking gear—it's part of the dress code at the Pizza Patio in Curry Village. Curry Village Pizza PatioA favorite spot among park staff, the Pizza Patio is just what the doctor ordered after a good hike. It's not about the pizza (which is pretty good), but rather the atmosphere of hanging out on a spacious wooden patio with a close-range view of Half Dome. Or for a taste of rustic sophistication, shower up and change your socks for a drop-in at The Ahwahnee Hotel, which serves up nature's decadence along with a classy bar and outdoor patio. The bar's black-and-white photographs and old-time piano hark back to pre-Gore-Tex days. And if you haven't seen the dining room, take a peek at its elegant, high-ceilinged wonder. Swanky!

Staying in Yosemite Valley without reservations months in advance is challenging, but be persistent. Check with the DNC (central reservations: 801-559-4884) for cancellations. To go a step further, call the front desk of your desired destination (they are more likely to have up-to-date information about cancellations) to see if they have availability. Camping and tent cabins without heaters are a good option if you have a warm sleeping bag. Outside the park, the newly renovated Yosemite View Lodge (209-379-2681) is 2 miles from the Arch Rock entrance on Highway 140. The yurts at Yosemite Lakes (209-962-0121) are a great option (bunkhouse cabins also available) and only 2 miles from the Big Oak Flat entrance on Highway 120. The historic Evergreen Lodge (800-935-6343) is 9 miles from the Big Oak Flat entrance and near little-visited Hetch Hetchy. And the Yosemite Westgate Lodge, a.k.a. America's Best Value Inn, (209-962-5281) is a clean and standard two-story motel 30 minutes from the Highway 120 entrance.