Into the Wild: Kick and glide in Sierra solitude on Hope Valley's cross-country ski and snowshoe terrain; access to all 60 miles of trails is free. Just 300 yards from Sorensen's, the Hope Valley Outdoor Center will set you up with all the equipment—and info—you need. Talk to Joyce, who runs the shop and has the beta on which trails are best, based on current conditions. For a flat and easy excursion, Joyce recommends the wide-open Grass Lake Trail off Highway 89. If you're up for a steeper route with quick access to big views, head out on the Indian Head Trail (pictured), which starts right behind Sorensen's; at about 1.5 miles, there's a spectacular vista point looking northwest over Hope Valley. Haven't mastered the kick and glide yet? No problem. Joyce offers lessons in cross-country and snowshoe. This is one classroom you may never want to leave.

BONUS: Hope Valley Outdoor Center will not only rent you skis, they'll also fill your belly with some of the best berry-stuffed pies this side of the Rockies and slake your thirst with cold draught beer. Full service!

Well-kept Wonderland: For a more groomed experience, head 15 miles west to the Kirkwood Cross Country & Snowshoe Center, check in, and pay for a pass ($22 for a full day). Their 50 miles of trails have maintained double-tracks, with skating lanes and three small backcountry warming huts. We particularly enjoyed skiing on the Juniper and Outpost trails to the warming hut. The last mile rewards you with breathtaking views of Caples Lake and the snow-capped Sierras.

Both Hope Valley Outdoor Center and Kirkwood Cross Country & Snowshoe Center offer special guided tours, including some under a full moon.

Hope Valley Outdoor Center, 14644 Hwy 88, Hope Valley; 530-694-2266.
Kirkwood Cross Country & Snowshoe Center, .5 mile east of Kirkwood on Hwy 88; 209-258-7248.