The fact that coastal Bolinas remains determinedly off the map makes it all the more enticing for a day-trip drop-in. But that's not the only reason to visit this Marin village. Its 157-year-old bar, Smiley's Schooner Saloon, has an appeal that's hard to find in bars nowadays. With its four-columned porch, two outdoor benches, and a large upper deck decorated with a lattice of white lights and the American flag, Smiley's just looks like an Old West saloon making good on its time. Inside the atmosphere is lively and civil, with a bar menu to match any libation. One of the oldest bars in California, Smiley's has been serving hooch since before the Civil War. Outside, neighborhood dogs patiently wait while their owners shoot the breeze and take their whiskey shots, or just chug some good old brews.

THIRST-BUILDER: The Bolinas waterfront is nice for beach strolling or longboard surfing. For the former, pack a blanket and some snacks to enjoy the lapping waves at this foggy enclave. Walk to the beach right from town. For a clockwise loop, keep walking southeast past Smiley's where the road ends and the beach begins.

Smiley's Schooner Saloon, 41 Wharf Rd., Bolinas; 415-868-1311. Bolinas is 30 miles north of San Francisco. On Highway 1, 4.5 miles after Stinson Beach, make a left onto Olema-Bolinas Rd. Continue on this (by making two left turns) into Bolinas.