Zion the Prize

Backpacking Zion National Park

Backpackers on a trail in Zion National Park

Geological wonders, massive canyon views, and a bit of a grind to get to the good stuff … it’s all part of the blissful isolation you can find on the West Rim Trail at Zion, the fourth most visited national park in the country. Lose the crowds on a backpacking adventure starting at the most popular trailhead. Within just a few miles you’re likely to have the trail mostly to yourself for this 14-mile out-and-back adventure that climbs over 3,400 feet to a serene Southwest sanctuary and nine primitive campsites on the West Rim. Pro tip: Our favorite is Campsite 4. While day-of permits are possible for five of the nine sites, we recommend making a reservation ahead of time for a guarantee on a site.

Backpacker on West Rim Trail in Zion National Park

Backpacker enjoying the Zion National Park scenery and sunset.

Primitive campsite with an orang tent among trees on West Rim of Zion National Park

From the main visitor center you’ll shuttle to the Grotto trailhead, which crosses the Virgin River over a photogenic bridge. Follow the paved path towards famous Angels Landing and begin switchbacks up Zion Canyon’s west wall—a brutal grind with no shade, so get a very early start. Of course, the higher you rise, the better the views, with pink and red sheer sandstone cliffs as something to constantly marvel at.

Group of friends hiking in a row along a red rock canyon wall in Zion National Park

Backpacker on the West Rim Trail at Zion National Park

More captivating is the deep, narrow gorge below and its surrounding iconic rock formations with grandiose names like the Court of Patriarchs and Mountain of the Sun. When you get to Walter’s Wiggles, the toughest part of the slog begins: 21 short, steep switchbacks to Scout Lookout, your halfway point and a grand opportunity to take a break and take in the divine views of Angels Landing. The West Rim Trail continues from here, escaping crowds and bringing backcountry scenery. And canyons! Refrigerator Canyon and Telephone Canyon have panoramas seen by far fewer folks (just be very careful of drop-offs!).

Backpacker young person giving the peace sign on the West Rim Trail at Zion National Park

Green tent set up at primitive backpacking campsite on the West Rim at Zion National Park.

Group of friends backpacking and posing for a photo in front o granite mountains in Zion National Park

Hike down to lush vegetation before crossing a bridge and … yep, heading back up again! The views keep the inspiration going, and at mile 5.5 you’ll reach the first campsite along with the all-important Cabin Spring, quite possibly the only reliable water source (bring a filter!). Fill up! Then continue west (left) at the junction, reaching Campsite 4 within another 1.5 miles. It’s the perfect secluded spot, perched on a forested plateau. Set up camp for the weekend under the ponderosa pines.

Hikers crossing a bridge on a backpacking trip in Zion National Park.

Do a day hike on the Telephone Canyon Loop (5.5 miles, all in), where you’ll get canyon views in every direction and a vista of the Pine Valley Mountains to the west. Deer herds may provide added company. Potato Hollow is a nice picnic spot, and intrepid hikers can extend the journey north to Lava Point. Two nights is nice here, but it’s hard to leave!

Group of friends enjoying beers at Zion Brewing

Park at the main visitor center lot (or find street parking in town) and head for the famous park shuttle. We highly recommend making a reservation.

Story and photos by Matt Pawlik, pictured here in a green hat, front right, on selfie photo duty, post-trip celebration at Zion Brewery just outside the park.

Trending Stories NorCal

View all Stories
  1. Bear Hug

    This 5.5-mile loop through Coyote Lake-Harvey Bear Ranch County Park explores one of the newest segments of the acclaimed Bay Area Ridge Trail, one redolent with trees ranging from madrone and manzanita to buckeye and blue elderberry (with a bubbly post-hike bonus).

    View
  2. Field of Light at Sensorio in Paso Robles

    Light This Way

    Hidden in the bucolic hills of Paso Robles lies one of the greatest light shows on earth. The lighted art exhibition, Sensorio, is as if the rainbow magic of the aurora borealis was plucked from the sky and planted in the fields.

    View
  3. Bikers and walkers on the Bay Area Ridge Trail with the Golden Gate Bridge behind them

    National Park City Walk

    See San Francisco the way locals do by hiking the Presidio, a national park right in the city! Wooded trails, secluded beaches, and epic views of the Golden Gate Bridge feature on this 5.5-mile out-and-back on the Bay Area Ridge Trail. It’s a lovely slice of the City by the Bay.

    View
  4. Bucks Up!

    Come on in, the water is beautiful. Whether you like swimming, kayaking, stand-up paddling, or heading out on a bigger boat, Bucks Lake is a high mountain haven that’s easy to access, blissfully uncrowded, and surrounded by sandy beaches, picnic areas, pines, and aspens.

    View

Trending Stories SoCal

View all Stories
  1. Sponsored

    Tram to Cool Treks

    Elevate your fun, getting whisked from palm trees to alpine wilderness on the world’s largest rotating tramcar. The Palm Springs Aerial Tramway transports you up and away on a 2.5-mile scenic route from the desert floor to the refreshing wilderness of Mount San Jacinto State Park.

    View
  2. Coming Up Roses

    Looking to spice up your hiking life? Give your partner a rose—Mount Rose! The 10-mile out-and-back peak hike goes up to one of the grandest views in all of Lake Tahoe. Get ready f

    View
  3. A group of people clamored around the summit marker at Mission Peak in the Bay Area

    Your Mission Is Less Crowded

    Mission Peak is one of the Bay Area’s most popular mountains, with many hikers climbing every weekend. Skip the crowds with this 6-mile loop up the less-traveled southern route.

    View
  4. Vista Hermosa Park in Echo Park Los Angeles

    Vista Hermosa, Echo That!

    Tucked in Echo Park, the little-known gem of Vista Hermosa Natural Park feels worlds away thanks to its serene beauty and thoughtful design. At 11.5 acres there’s still plenty to explore. And it's got a premier view of the iconic Los Angeles skyline.

    View