Peaceful Pistes

Downhill not your cup of cocoa? Go Nordic! Mammoth’s stunning Lakes Basin has 19-plus miles of groomed cross-country ski and snowshoe trails where you won’t find crowds or expensive lift tickets. What you will find is a serene wonderland of frozen lakes and pine forests, where summer roads, bike paths, and foot trails—all now blanketed in snow—form blissful winter pistes.

Tamarack Cross-Country Ski Center, situated beside Twin Lakes at 8,600 feet, is your gateway into this wintry paradise. The basin has a great variety of routes, even for beginners, but you'll want to head to higher altitude for the most exalted backcountry views. Lake Mary Loop is an easy, highly scenic 5-mile lollipop loop with side excursions possible. From the ski center, ascend Twin Lakes Road, and once you hit Lake Mary Road turn right to continue the slow upward climb. (You’re in for a good workout.) Turn left onto Lake Mary Loop to begin a 2-mile circle around the lake. Stunning southward views over the frozen expanse are dominated by Crystal Crag, a monolith of naked granite towering above nearby Lake George.

Allow at least three hours to traverse the entire 5-mile route. Experienced skiers itching for a longer, more immersive and challenging course can connect to Horseshoe Woods Trail at the lake’s far side, then return to Lake Mary Road via Eastside Trail. Both trails are narrower, rated medium difficulty, and deeply ensconced in evergreen forest. On the return, stop at Twin Falls Overlook to watch the frigid water from Lake Mamie cascade down a steep channel into Twin Lakes, 300 feet below. Then go grab a cup of cocoa!

STAY: Overnight at Tamarack Lodge on the shore of Twin Lakes. Established in 1924, the rustic wooden lodge has a charming interior with a stone fireplace, antiques, old photos on the walls, and a fine dining restaurant (The Lakefront). Speakers hidden throughout bathe the whole place in mid-century jazz nostalgia. The lodge has 11 guest rooms. You can also reserve one of 35 private (and pet-friendly) cabins clustered around the building.

From the heart of the town of Mammoth Lakes, follow Main St. (CA-203) west. After passing through town, continue onto Lake Mary Rd., and after 2 miles bear right onto Twin Lakes Rd. to reach Tamarack. Get trail passes ($29 for a full day) and rent ski gear at the Tamarack Cross-Country Ski Center, housed in a yurt made warm and inviting by a friendly staff and a blazing wood stove. Check the website for snow reports and trail status. Dog-friendly, but dogs must stay off groomed trails.