Rock of Ages
Three Oregon Wonders: Painted Hills, Smith Rock, and Fort Rock
Some of Oregon's biggest stars aren't in the sky. These three geological showstoppers have been millions of years in the making, with otherworldly landscapes that transport you to another planet while keeping you firmly grounded on Earth. It's a trip!
Palette Swirl: Eastern Oregon's spectacular Painted Hills are part of John Day Fossil Beds National Monument. With their ribboning bands of rusty reds and powdery yellows, these high-desert hills look like Van Gogh took a paintbrush to the landscape. But this is artistry by nature. Ancient volcanic ash, shifting climates, and a mineral makeover millions of years in the making created this kaleidoscope. Some hills resemble giant, old-fashioned swirled lollipops or layer cakes of vanilla, chocolate, and red velvet. Others look like Mars. A bright blue reservoir, visible from different vantage points, adds another splash of color to this psychedelic landscape.
Spend an afternoon exploring and bring a picnic. The Painted Hills Overlook Trail is a quick 0.5-mile round-trip jaunt with an expansive panorama. Then head to the Painted Cove Trail, an easy 0.25-mile loop winding through hills tinged with lavender, gold, and crimson. A stretch of boardwalk takes you alongside brilliant red claystone, its color a souvenir of ancient soils and oxidized iron. It looks like a sci-fi set, and you're the star.
TIP: The Painted Hills are a worthy daylight destination anytime, but golden hour bathes the marbled hills in an extra glow. A little sun glitter, courtesy of Mother Nature.
Vertical Induction: Just 40 minutes northeast of Bend, Smith Rock State Park is the pinnacle of high-desert drama. Hulking cliffs rise dramatically above the perfectly named Crooked River, and jagged volcanic spires offer a landscape sculpted for adventure. Millions of years ago, volcanic eruptions left behind ash and debris that hardened into tuff, the mainstay of Smith Rock's terrain. The Crooked River helped carve the canyon, making this creation in nature even more gorge-ous (we had to do it). Smith Rock remains part of the traditional homelands of Indigenous peoples, whose history here runs deep.
Look up and you're likely to see rock climbers navigating sheer faces. Smith Rock is iconic in the climbing community, with thousands of routes. The park is also a hiking hub offering a variety of trails from easy to turbo-charging your thighs. Make it an up-and-down, wind-all-around adventure on the aptly named Misery Ridge Loop, where the payoff includes sweeping canyon views and a close-up vantage of Monkey Face, one of the park's most iconic rock formations. Or keep things delightfully panoramic on Rim Rock Trail, an easy, half-mile stroll with views of climbers on the cliffs, the river oasis below, and possibly even bald eagles soaring overhead for extra awes.
TIP: Late day and sunset are a spectacular time to take a walk atop the canyon rim, when the spires glow amber and deep tangerine above the winding river.
Soul to Soles: Nike isn't the only Oregon original with sole status. Step back in time at Fort Rock State Natural Area. This massive, horseshoe-shaped volcanic formation deep in the high desert looks like a fortress, and its remote location lends intrigue to this designated National Natural Landmark.
In 1938, archaeologists discovered sagebrush-bark sandals in nearby Fort Rock Cave, among the oldest known footwear in the world. For perspective, by the time Nike got its Swoosh in 1971, these soles had already been around for nearly 10,000 years. They were found buried beneath volcanic ash from Mount Mazama, the same volcano whose eruption created Crater Lake, the centerpiece of Oregon's only national park. Wander a few short trails around Fort Rock to follow in the footsteps of those who came long before.
TIP: Fort Rock Cave itself is accessible only by guided tour, offered seasonally, with advance reservations required.
BONUS FORT ROCK SUNSET AND STARGAZING TOUR: For a completely different point of view, join Bend-based Wanderlust Tours for a sunset and stargazing adventure at Fort Rock, where the geological wonders give way to a night sky blanketed in stars.
